Sunday, 9 November 2014

Jalie 3024 top

Readers I have frankenpatterned myself a sleeveless summer top using Jalie 3024.

I am starting to become a real fan of this Canadian pattern company because of their excellent drafting and their multi sizing and the fact that their pattern pieces remind me of building blocks and I like nothing better than interchangeable bits so I can run with my own ideas.

The top I made uses the bodice of View C for the back (the back and front the same on that dress) and  the bodice of View B without the crossover. I traced these then added enough of the skirt to make a top.

I added a CB seam so I could do all in one facings that end under the bust.

Bring on summer...

The order of construction and method for the facings is:

Join the fronts to backs at the shoulders on the bodice and also on the facings.
Lay the facing piece on the bodice piece, right sides together.
Serge the neck edge 
Serge the armhole edges.
Turn the whole thing right side out pulling the backs through the fronts.
Sew the side seams.
Sew the back seam.
Top stitch the neck edge. Top stitch the armhole edges.
Cover stitch the hem.

An almost instant top.

My alterations to the pattern were:  Take 1cm off the back at the shoulders and 2cm off the front at the shoulders and to raise the front armhole a little, also widen the armhole curve 1cm at bust level.

My straps ended up a bit wider because of all this but that is my preference.

I bought the pattern for the dress but I am very pleased with this basic tank top. It's going to be a TNT.

By the way, my first version was supposed to be a yellow top to go with my V9007 skirt (see previous post) but it turned out too awful due to the cheap & nasty material used. Lets just call it a non-wearable muslin shall we?

In case anyone is wondering I did not make the pants, they are Target skinny jeans with 6" cut off to make them into capris.

I have a pile of sewing that I am going to do for DD from a recent material buying spree.. Off to clear the cutting table.

Happy sewing,


Wednesday, 5 November 2014

Vogue 9007 Skirt

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As spring teeters on the edge of summer here in the southern hemisphere, Spotlight sent out a 40% off coupon and my eye was distracted form all the other things I want to sew by a set of circle skirts, Vogue 9007 and some green paisley cotton.

I am a sewing floozy, I go where the whim takes me..

V9007 View B

The skirt is a six gore circle with squared off points and hangs from a snug curved yoke. There are pockets in the skirt side seams and a zip at the back.

A skirt this voluminous needs a fitted top, so I am making a pale yellow v-neck tank top from a newly arrived Jalie pattern to go with it.
The skirt feels nicely swishy to wear and just floats around the legs as you move.

This pattern is a real fabric hog but I lengthened it 2cm because on the line drawing the short part is hovering above the model's knees. In the vogue link on a real model it is not quite that short. 

No matter I like skirts like this longer rather than shorter and am thinking of making it from a knit and lengthening the four curves into points. We shall see.

n.b.  The skirt pieces are all cut on the true bias and do drop a little. The beauty of the uneven hem is that the drop doesn't matter!

The pattern recommends broadcloth, linen blends, lightweight denim. Denim? Maybe they mean chambray... it needs fabric that is lightweight but firmly woven and with a nice drape.  

The envelope also says 'not suitable for obvious diagonals'. One day I am going to make this out of diagonal stripe and see if anything awful happens. Will the bogey man jump out of the closet? My own fabric rebellion..

Happy sewing,


Wednesday, 29 October 2014

Little hot weather dress

Dear Reader,

I said I would not write about V1349 again but I was interested enough in this pattern to make it up in a woven, as recommended. I used some nice Japanese cottons and cotton muslin lining. I did a little bit of colour blocking and made up the outer shell and put the zip in so I could tweak the fit and think about the possibility of pockets (nope) and my material was too thin for the dress to be worn without a lining.

I ended up with a sack dress with nice seam lines, but still a sack. However it is good for hot weather!

Please pardon the after work pictures. I need to find time to do some posing in daylight!

During construction I did try out making it more fitted but that didn't work. It's designed to be a sack and it wanted to be a sack so it went back to  being a sack. Tired of fiddling about, I did not want to take out the zipper to construct it as recommended so I finished off the neck and armhole edges with self bias binding, going slightly wider than the original seam lines. I don't know if it would look better along the original lines and above knee length but I am not likely to find out.

BTW Anyone tall would have to add length so as not to end up with a mini...

I like this dress enough to wear it but for the fitted dress I had in mind I've ordered the newly released V9050. I've got some linen that was bright red that I have bleached to a marbled orange colour. I can see it.

I got lost in a work vortex the last few weeks and did too much of everything at once and got over wrought, so I am scaling back a bit. I am lucky to be in a position to be able to do so. (I work as an agency fill in).

In fact tomorrow I am going fabric shopping and doing lunch with one of my favourite people. We will both take time to get off the treadmill, walk in the sunshine.. The agenda as far as buying fabric goes, is to buy quality over quantity.

Right now I am going to get an early night...

Happy sewing
Or not sewing as the case may be