Thursday, 28 May 2015

Style Arc Ann T-Top


A few months ago in Stitches magazine there was and advertisement for Style Arc's Ann T shirt pattern as a free download. Beauty!  I needed some winter tops so this week I got around to printing the pattern out, taping it up and having a go. The print out for size14 (my usual big 4 Size) looked way too big so I printed out the size 12. It still looked roomy and did turn out a bit big.

Style Arc Ann T-Top

The pattern is a basic T shirt with gathers up the sides of the body, which I omitted. I shortened the front to match the back then shortened all the pieces because they were absurdly long on me, even the sleeves. I cut some length off then cut a bit more then tried the top on and then serged inside the side and arm seams allowances again. By the way the pattern has half centimetre seam allowances.
By this time I was having an alternate universe moment. Had I shrunk in the wash?

No, if anything I am carrying a bit of weight around my middle. Had I printed it out to scale? Yes the measure square was perfect. Did any of the existing reviews on Pattern Review  Pattern Reviews for Ann T-Top  say it was enormous? Was it my fabric? No, it is a nice moderate weight stable knit. It must just be a relaxed fit, but that is ok for winter Tees.

I forgot to mention I raised the front neckline halfway up the scoop. I cut a much shorter neck band to my formula which is the measurement of your final neckline minus 6 or 7cm depending on how snuggly you want it to sit. The original neckband pattern piece was very long, even for a scoop! If you make this pattern flat measure everything first.

The Style Arc instructions are basically just an order of construction, but what is there makes sense - unlike Burdastyle instructions.

Style Arc Ann T

The fabric was a bargain at My Hung in Cabramatta. There are about six material shops all within walking distance of one another. The quality of material is hit and miss but I got lucky with this one. It still felt beautiful after I pre-washed it.

Back to the pattern. It's worth making even though it is nowhere near as fitted as the line drawings. I already have a black T shirt almost finished and it's nearly the look I am after. It just occurred to me I should have narrowed shoulders a bit to my true shoulder line. I'll have to do one more from my newly acquired knit fabric stash and keep tweaking till I'm happy and have a 'Ann' TNT.

Edited to add the new black version. I've done a Pattern Review of Style Arc Ann-T Top

As an aside, I took out NL6735, a very fitted T-shirt which I've made before and the main difference in the way these two sit, apart from the body shaping at the sides and CB, is in the sleeves. NL reviewed here has much snugger sleeves which are cut higher at the armpit. The Ann T is looser through the shoulder and sleeve. Both patterns are good but result in a different 'hang'.
You can paint stripes on a horse but it doesn't turn it into a zebra - something like that. Duh.

Happy sewing,


Sunday, 3 May 2015

Burda 02/2015/128 Top

Hi all! It has been a few weeks between postings. I've been busy with other things although I can't really complain if life gets in the way of sewing when it involves other things I wanted to do. Life is short and I want to live it.

I bought February Burda when it reached the shops here because it had some fresh ideas in it rather than reworkings of previous themes.

One of the beauties is this cleverly pieced slit neck blouse Burdastyle 02/2015/128

If you don't have the magazine this pattern is available as a download. I made it up out of stash crepe and I-forgot-I-had-it satin, both polyesters of some sort, to see how it would sit. I wanted to do the front half of the seeves from the crepe but did not have enough fabric. I also wanted to play with an almost tunic length and ended up with a slight high-low hem which I like.

The pattern  can be traced off in three lengths - crop top, top or dress so I just added the back curve from the crop top and the straight front from the regular length top then added 16cm to the length of the front, the back and the front triange insert, then trimmed the shape a bit before hemming.

I made front and back neck facings rather than just a neckline bias band because my crepe frayed too much and didn't behave itself. Regarding construction I have to admit I did not read the burda instructions, which vex me at the best of times. (Tracing the pttern is bad enough!) But my order was this:  I assembled the front, then the back, then the sleeves then put the sleeves in using the flat method and stitiching the sleeve heads from angle to angle first, then clipping and pivoting the fronts then the backs. I find tricky pivots easier to do in stages! The neck facing was next.  Because of the crepe I used lots of stay stitching. Lastly I did small hems and there it is.

The pattern has a short sleeve as well and some girls on the burdastyle site have made summer tops from this pattern. It lends itself to two sided or border print fabric well with the border used for the back and front triangular insert pieces.

The pattern is in petite 17 to 21 and I  added 2 cm ease to the CF, CB and side seams fearing it would be too small but the pattern is roomy.

This was a bit of fun. I will wear this top, maybe just with blue jeans rather than the full biker outfit yes? But I wil definitely be making it again, possibly from a stable knit.

I have to run to work! Happy sewing,